5-Week Fashion Makeover: Preparing For The Big Day

As Fashion Exposed Now readies to relaunch this month, this is what you need to do to prepare.In part five of this five week business makeover, fashion finance expert Melissa Brown tells you how to maximise on your Fashion Exposed Now experience. Fashion trade shows can be an exhausting, exhilarating, wild ride for many in the fashion industry. There is so much invested in each collection that it is easy to become focussed on the collection itself and not to be mindful of what happens after the show is over. That’s because it is often before and after the show that the real business of trade shows begin. So what are the final checkpoints you need to think about as you prepare to do business?

  1. Who are you going to sell your collection to?
Is it going to be the first store that comes along or do you have a plan for where you want it to be sold and how are you going to ensure that happens?
  1. How much are you going to sell?
Creating a collection of samples for the runway is one thing but how many pieces do you want to sell from the collection? Obviously your pricing will be tied up here as you consider lower volumes and higher prices or vice versa.
  1. How are you going to manage discounts?
If a store asks for a bulk order but wants a substantial discount, will you still make a profit? It’s important to know what price points you can manage well before talks begin.
  1. How are you going to manufacture your order?
Receiving a large order from a supplier might be incredibly exciting but have you planned for how you might fulfil that order? This includes finding out how long the order will take to be fulfilled and shipped if sourcing from overseas. If you’re fulfilling the order yourself, do you have the capacity to fill the order or will you need to hire help?
  1. Have you budgeted for your order?
Again, receiving an order is exhilarating, but have you calculated all the necessary costs so that you will make a profit for that order. This includes manufacturing costs, shipping costs, additional labour and so on.
  1. How are you going to pay for your order?
When you receive an order from a buyer it is so important to establish the payment cycle. That is because if you are relying on the buyer to fund your order but you won’t be receiving most (or any) of the funds until after you have fulfilled the order then you are going to have a cash flow issue. Organising funds beforehand will ensure that when you meet with a potential buyer you know that you can afford to fulfil the order.This might mean organising an overdraft, factoring of invoices, loans from family, taking on an investor or using your own funds. It might seem strange, but the bigger the order, the more trouble you can find yourself in both in struggling to manufacture the order and with financing the order.So make sure you have a strategy for both manufacturing and financing your order before you meet with buyers so that you know the maximum amount of pieces you can afford to produce.
  1. Be aware of deadlines and set up action plans.
Make sure buyers want to deal with you again by ensuring you have a plan in place to meet order deadlines. This may mean creating timelines for ordering stock, manufacturing stock or organising a gradual delivery of stock.Make sure you give your business every chance of maximising on trade shows by ensuring you have an answer to the questions above. The numbers side may not be as exciting as the collections, but by giving them the same care and precision you will give your business every chance of having a successful and profitable event and beyond.Melissa is CEO of accounting & advisory firm A&TA. For more pricing tools head to The Numbers Lounge www.thenumberslounge.com or email Melissa melissa@byata.com.au  

Q & A with Mhoo Mhoo

With a background in textile at Charles Parsons, it was only a matter of time before Alice Scotts started her own label. Helen and Alice Scotts, a mother and daughter team are the founders of luxe label Mhoo Mhoo. While Alice’s experience stems from an apparel background, Helen brings the business side to the label. With a love of fine fabrications, this label is the antithesis to fast fashion and low quality garments the fashion industry is churning out in in abundance.Despite the hardships, limitations and expense of making in Australia, it’s something they are passionate about, focusing their brand ethos on being an advocate for slow fashion. Quality pieces, are important to them with timeless design. As is also the use of fine fabrications to produce pieces that are built to last.I sat down with them before their launch at this years Fashion Exposed Now.Tell me about the ethos of the brand and who is the customer?We design and manufacture clothing for fashion conscious women who love classic, sophisticated design and have a preference to buy locally produced, quality garments. All our garments are designed and made in Melbourne.How long has the brand been going for? Is this your first time exhibiting at a trade fair?We have been in business for 4 years now, and this is the first time we have exhibited at a trade fair.

What made you both go into business together?We have always shared a love of fashion and design and for a number of years discussed the prospect of building our own label. We wanted to design and make garments we would wear ourselves, both during our work and play time. Mhoo Mhoo has enabled us to do that. When Alice entered the textile industry, having completed a Diploma in Fashion and Textile Merchandising, we were well positioned to source and access the finest quality fabrics to make our garments.Helen has worked in management and run her own business for some time, and Alice has worked within the fashion and textiles industry for several years, so Helen’s business savvy and Alice’s industry experience have helped us to become the brand you see today.Alice, tell us about your background with Charles Parsons and your experience in the fashion industry?I have been at Charles Parsons for 6 years now in a variety of roles, from business administrator through to procurement coordinator for local production.I am very lucky that I get to work with the merino product Mhoo Mhoo uses all the way from ordering, through production, quality assurance checking and then to the finished product.

With your background at Charles Parson has this taken a lot of trial and error out of sampling with your knowledge of fabrications?We knew we wanted to work with Merino wool so this wasn’t too difficult, however over the years we have trialed different merino qualities, from jersey to Ponte, different weights and finishes depending on what our customers like and warm to.What are the best selling pieces in your brand?Our signature style is definitely our Batwing top, which we have repeated from season to season. It is made from beautiful 100% mid-weight merino wool. Its lustre and drape are beautiful and really complement the wearer no matter what shape.How important is made in Australia to you and have you managed to stay competitive?This is very important to us. We design, source fabrics and manufacture in Melbourne, Australia. Our fabrics are all sourced locally in Melbourne. We think it is important to highlight the local talent we have here in Australia, and encourage consumers to support small local businesses like ourselves, and to drive the ethical and sustainable fashion movement. We want to be at the forefront of this movement. We want to promote and highlight the work done by small designers such as ourselves.What sort of fabrications are you using?Our fabrics are 100% merino wool, some merino/silk blends and some styles with leather paneling.You were finalists in the 2015 Australian Wool Fashion Awards and also in Melbourne Fashion Festival, any other plans for the brand?We would like to grow our stockists, to work with and listen to retailers so we can be the best we can be.Your website mentions you are supporting ‘slow fashion’ what does that mean to you? Is sustainability an important part of your brand?Our garments are designed to last, both through their classic feminine design and the high quality of materials used.  We promote the idea of slow fashion, in today’s retail market within Australia, it is very difficult to come up against the ‘big guys’ who promote fast fashion. We aim to promote sustainability and to highlight the amazing fashion coming from our homegrown labels in Australia. We are not trend based, we are quality based.You can find Mhoo Mhoo at this year's Fashion Exposed NOW – Stand number: F05 About the Author, Phoebes Garland     Phoebes Garland is the Co-founder & Co-owner of Garland & Garland Fashion, a fashion & consultancy agency based in Sydney, and founder of Fashion Initiative.  Between the two of them, Phoebes & Robert Garland have over 60 years’ sales experience in fashion, publishing and advertising. Phoebes is an industry mentor to designers with Australian fashion industry body, Australian Fashion Chamber and is on the Advisory Board for Fashion Design Studio (TAFE NSW). Phoebes Garland is also an ambassador to Shake it up Australia Foundation and contributes articles to Australian Fashion industry magazine, Ragtrader.

Boutiques We Love: Joy Hysteric

This is one buyer who refuses to quit - Joy Hysteric founder Mel Tan is preparing a meteoric comeback.                                                                       Mel Tan of Joy HystericWhat is the background to Joy Hysteric?Joy Hysteric was founded back in 2004. I had been studying communications and working in various boutiques as a buyer and retail manager. I wanted to open my own fashion boutique on the Gold Coast and bring to my hometown high-end designer brands that weren't available otherwise.What have been some of the milestones in your career as a boutique owner?I was the first to introduce a lot of high end designer brands to the Gold Coast and even Queensland back then. I always strived to be at the forefront of the market up there. I introduced eCommerce to the business in 2007 and was one of very few bricks and mortar retailers embracing online. I was utilising social media to promote the boutique on MySpace, way before Instagram came about.What have been some of the challenges?The global financial crisis pretty much killed my business. A lot of my clientele made their money through property development, being the Gold Coast, and almost overnight they disappeared. This came about at a time I had also signed a lease at a major shopping centre development - off the plan. This was by far the biggest mistake and challenge of my career. The developers never came through with their promises. Everyone in that centre went bankrupt or the national retailers moved out. This left basically me and a couple of other independents struggling to pay exorbitant rent with no neighbours or foot traffic. Our online sales saved us.What was another hurdle?Another challenge was my location; I always felt that my buying was a little bit outside of my Gold Coast customer base. Apart from my longstanding regulars, a majority of our sales came from Sydney and Melbourne or even overseas. The locals didn't quite get it. It either wasn't 'resort' enough or 'tight' enough. When I would try to compromise my buying to suit, it showed. I personally wasn't into it and our offering became confused and conflicted. Hence why online surpassed in store sales over the years.When my mother passed away two years ago, that cemented my decision to close the last bricks and mortar store almost immediately. I was no longer inspired and felt trapped on the Gold Coast, particularly it was difficult to imagine operating the store without my biggest support as good staff (another challenge) was always difficult to find.What makes a successful boutique?Keeping up with the ever-changing market and embracing it rather than fearing it. Also enforcing your own direction so that you are unique and not just another boutique doing a carbon copy of the next. Obviously great customer service has always been key. But unfortunately these days everyone's a keyboard warrior with social media. Sometimes no matter how nice or helpful or flexible you are with a disgruntled customer, their personal opinion or misunderstanding of your policies can mean some nasty stuff gets put online about your business. So in saying that, I would ensure you be on your A game when it comes to social media feedback and community management.What is the biggest change you've made to your business?I am now purely online and content focused. The new e-store will revolve around my personal style, blog and creative content. I am selling what is 100% me and my style rather than trying to buy for what I think my customers want. The format for the site lends itself to that. I didn't want it to look like another eCommerce site which is just buy buy buy. I have created the new website with a lookbook feel that mixes my original creative content and the eCommerce products. They are all woven together seamlessly in order to be a one stop source of inspiration - not just for stuff to buy. I am also working very closely with each of the designers/brands that I showcase. It's not just a buy/sell relationship now but more of an ongoing collaboration with them.What brands will you stock?A tight edit of whatever I am loving and wearing at the time. I plan to rotate the offering and not lock myself in with any particular label. For the launch I will be showcasing my favourite pieces from Dyspnea, I.AM.GIA, Kaliver, Isabelle Quinn, Third Form and Frio.What do you look for when you're buying?I can't really pinpoint this as it often changes. I usually look for something a bit different to the norm. I don't plan to stock basics unless it's with a twist. I don't particularly want anything that's in the majors. I generally just don't want the same offering that any other boutique is doing. I'm looking for key statement pieces.What is your plan for the platform over the long-term?To continue growing it slowly and organically and introduce more services and products which aren't necessarily fashion items. I can't say any more at this stage but I have a lot of things in the pipeline for Joy Hysteric.You have a significant social media following. What tips would you give boutiques on raising their profile?Create your own content. There's only so much re-posting you can do before your business looks like a mirror or culmination of everyone else's.What tips would you give to designers for attracting the attention of a buyer?Shoot your products clearly and don't scrimp on the shoot. Hire a stylist who understands commercial viability and can translate this for a lookbook. This is what I do as a stylist; after so many years in retail and buying and seeing countless brands, ranges and lookbooks; I now produce lookbooks and campaigns for brands knowing best how to sell their product.Also, please do your research. The number of emails I receive telling me about a 'great brand for my Brisbane store' is a bit insulting. I never was a Brisbane store and haven't been buying for the Queensland market in two years so that actually puts me off straight away.

5-Week Fashion Makeover: Prepare to make some serious money

July is the time to start planning for the biggest trading period of the year: Christmas.In part four of this five week retail makeover, fashion finance expert Melissa Brown tells what mistakes to avoid when planning for the festive season. 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Image: Naudic
With the pressure to make Christmas sales budgets and to have a record season, there can be pressure on retailers to drive sales at any costs. However while this might mean a sales budget is met, it’s not always good for business.What do I mean by sales at any cost?I’m not talking high pressure sales tactics but rather the move by retailers to start the sales season early with a pre-Christmas sale.I have noticed in the last few years that the post-Christmas sales are often starting before Christmas with retailers having a knee-jerk reaction to potentially lower sales than expected.Of course, once one retailer presses the sales button, it seems there’s a domino effect with other retailers abandoning any prior sales strategies and simply following suit.The danger of course is in educating customers that by delaying their Christmas spending retailers will bring forward post- Christmas sales.Customers aren’t stupid and if they realise that retailers will start their post-Christmas sales on December 20, you can be sure they’ll start delaying their Christmas spending until then and brave the crowds.By bringing forward post-Christmas sales, retailers are simply cannibalising profits they could have made if they had kept their full margins therefore exceeding their budget, potentially significantly, to make the same margin.So what is my advice for a retailer that is tempted to hit a sales budget with a sneaky pre-Christmas sale?1. For a start, you need to be focusing on more than simply sales budgets. If you are solely concentrating on sales targets and ignoring profit margins then you are missing the point. Great sales figures made by discounting really aren’t great sales at all.2. Don’t be tempted to hit the sales button if you’re not reaching your sales targets. Keep the sales for post-Christmas and aim for your target with other more creative tactics instead.3. Talk to your customers. Mine that great database you hopefully have. If they’re not shopping with you then find out where they are, what others are doing and try something different.4. Create unique Christmas shopping experiences for valued customers.5. Create an inexpensive Christmas give-away or trial-offer rather than resorting to a sale. I believe the temptation to resort to pre- Christmas sales to make sales budgets is simply laziness on the part of many retailers.For others it’s panic at not hitting sales targets but for the most part it’s laziness. Instead of cannibalising profit margins at Christmas time look for ways that you can give real value to your customers instead of simply through price.I wish you every success for the holiday season when it hits.Melissa is CEO of accounting & advisory firm A&TA. For more pricing tools head to The Numbers Lounge www.thenumberslounge.com or email Melissa melissa@byata.com.au