Marc Jun is wearing an azure blue shirt that features a front panel and matching cuffs in black with green piping. Then he whips off the panel and cuffs – and ta-da, a classic business shirt!The 31-year-old designer who is a rising favourite in New Zealand is not into
gimmicks. His unisex label invis-Able implies both mystery and practicality, and his new season collection, to be presented at Fashion Exposed Now, certainly delivers – versatile, inventive clothes full of surprises.Hidden pockets and zips, detachable sleeves, sweaters disguised as jackets – rarely has fashion been so much fun. It comes with a deeply-felt personal philosophy.“I asked myself: What makes me happy?” says Marc. “I’ve found that many material things and relationships may be satisfying at first, but quickly wear away. Instant gratification as a recipe for happiness is fake and unrealistic.“My work is inspired by the invisible things in life such as one’s thoughts, feelings and experiences – the things that define who we are. I express this through the unexpected features and hidden details in my garments. It’s like a playful game of hide and seek. Invis-Able makes you happy!”Born and raised in Seoul, Marc Wonseok Jun was 17 when he moved to New Zealand for tertiary studies that began with a diploma in business studies and became properly focused when he did a BA in fashion design at Otago Polytechnic.
“I started looking for work as soon as I graduated, but was still searching after three months, so I joined a digital print studio. I worked there for two years and then launched my label.”An unexpected meeting at the 2011 iD Dunedin Fashion Week brought big dividends. Among the hot young international designers featured on the runway was London-based fellow South Korean Byungmun Seo and two hit it off.“Byungmun invited me to assist him at fashion trade shows in Paris and Milan during the summer of 2012 and it was a really important experience,” says Marc. “He’s become a big name since then.”
The boyish-looking charmer behind invis-Able is showing every sign of following suit. His clothes have won a strong following among the young and surprisingly, not-so-young – “it amazes me how many women in their 40s and 50s buy them” – and their reputation for superior fabrics and craftsmanship is well deserved.“I oversee production of my ranges in Seoul to ensure quality,” says Marc. “I’d love to have them manufactured in New Zealand, but because of all the detailing, it would be prohibitively expensive.”Top attractions in the designer’s latest collection which he’ll also be showing at a major Shanghai fair in March, include his super cool bomber jackets – a sensuous version is in velvet - and reversible trenchcoats. Apart from a plaid used for pants, tops and coats, it’s all solids in a mostly dark palette, though pale grey and tan are also used, and shirts in white or blue provide fresh, crisp contrast.“Growing up in Seoul influenced my use of colours - I tend to wear them in a safe way – so I usually limit my use of brights to fine details,” says Marc Jun.“There are exceptions, like one of my black trenchcoats which has a yellow contrast. That’s bold for me.”- Zelda Cawthorne
Bamboo Body: Looking better than ever
Some paper, a black marker pen, a flash of inspiration. Armed with those basics, Bamboo Body’s creative coordinator and graphic designer, Mel Broughton, sketched some gum tree leaves and 
scanned the drawing into her computer to see if it would work as a fabric print.It needed just a few refining touches. Colours came next – the leaf outlines in ivory over a light blue background – and so, the Eucalyptus Print Collection was born in late 2018.Its fresh, relaxed dresses and separates will be among several new season standouts presented at Fashion Exposed Now by Bamboo Body, the Sydney-based label founded in 2005 by sisters Elouise Danby and Amanda Naess.“Look Good. Feel Good. Do Good” is Bamboo Body’s slogan. The philosophy behind it – clothing can be beautiful and sustainable - has never wavered, though one thing has changed dramatically.Notes Elouise: “When we began, eco fashion was seen as a bit alternative; now it’s mainstream because awareness of global warming and damage to the environment has grown hugely.“Back in 2005, Amanda and I realized there was a gap in the market for genuinely sustainable fashion.“Australian cotton farms have a massively destructive impact on waterways, so cotton was out as a key material. Then we got some bamboo fabric samples and wow, they were amazing – so soft and light.”
As the sisters soon discovered, bamboo not only drapes like a dream and blends well with other natural fibres, but is breathable and absorbs moisture, making it ideal for sensitive skin. As for the bamboo plant’s exceptionally low carbon footprint – truly one of nature’s superstars!Raised in NSW coastal town, Kiama – “still my favourite place in the world” – Elouise found herself at a sewing machine from age 13. “I’m small and read-to-wear didn’t work for me because I fell into the size gap between clothes for kids and adults, so I designed and made my own,” says the petite mother of two who heads operations and design at Bamboo Body.The strategy devised by the Elouise and Amanda could serve as a blueprint for long-term success: predominantly trans-seasonal, affordably priced collections that focus on classic design, wardrobe staples, unique inhouse prints and – increasingly demanded by the public – production practices that are environmentally and socially responsible.China has played a key role. The organically grown bamboo used by Bamboo Body is farmed in Yunnan Province and the Suzhou factory used by the company is committed to reducing emissions and recycling waste, and employs no workers under the age of 18.Other sustainable measures at Bamboo Body include using recycled paper and cardboard, and transporting their manufactured garments by sea rather than air, though of course all depends on the success of the collections.
Their popularity in outlets across Australia looks set to continue. While women’s outerwear dominates, there’s also a menswear range and categories include underwear, sleepwear, maternity and knitwear which features blends such as bamboo/cashmere.An important point of difference has been the talented Mel Broughton’s prints, first introduced three years ago. All have been hits and her latest designs will feature at Fashion Exposed Now.“One of them is the Grid Print – a little abstract and great for woven pieces,” says Elouise Danby. “Another is a soft floral for a women’s pyjama collection that we’ll be launching at the fair.” - Zelda Cawthorne
Airllywood: Three labels, two great friends
Mary-Anne Sullivan loves Airllywood, her popular fashion store at Queensland’s Airlie Beach, renowned as a gateway to the Whitsunday Islands and Great Barrier Reef.
Pauline Ball is equally attached to her farm in Gippsland, Victoria – “beef cattle and four acres of garden.”They are lifelong friends and in February, will present three labels at the Sydney 2019 Fashion Exposed Now fair – Birds of Paradise and Mermaid’s Playground, created by Mary-Anne and making its debut, Boudica, designed by Pauline.“Mary-Anne and I talked about it for ages and finally I decided to do it,” says the farmer and accomplished seamstress who also happens to be an internationally experienced specialist in technology resource management.To history buffs, Boudica (Romanised as Boadicea) was the British Celtic queen who led an uprising against the Roman occupying forces in 60 AD. To Pauline, that magnificently statuesque warrior is the perfect role model for today’s “more buxom diva” who desires glamour with comfort. “The Boudica woman will meet you for high tea and then party the night…always with a bounce in her step,” notes the introduction to the size 14-24 label.It’s a far cry from the mostly dispiriting imagery associated with the plus-size sector. Pauline is certainly familiar with the challenges.“For years, I tried to find clothes for when I travelled to Asia – really nice, stylish pieces suitable for heat and humidity – but there was nothing for the more voluptuous woman that appealed,” she explains.“Mary-Anne agreed there was a gap in the market, so I decided it was time to fill it.”With a decade’s experience in the fashion industry, the power behind Airllywood, which carries some 20 Australian labels – accessories and jewellery as well as clothes - can be depended on for sound advice.
The lessons she has learned from Birds of Paradise which offers richly ornate caftans and chic casualwear, and resort wear label, Mermaid’s Playground, should also prove valuable.“When I introduced Birds of Paradise at my store, I didn’t think beyond retail, but then buyers kept asking if they could place orders and I realized the solution was to design and wholesale,” says Mary-Anne.“Mermaid’s Playground appeals to a younger group – fresh, feminine dresses and coordinates with a touch of Boho. Like Birds of Paradise and Boudica, it’s in natural fibres and manufactured in India under fair workplace practices.“I have a great team of girls at Airllywood. It’s been a great adventure, a real labour of love.”Even the destructive forces of Cyclone Debbie in March 2017 – “we had very bad flooding at Airlie Beach” – failed to dent Mary-Anne Sullivan’s enthusiasm and she’s looking forward to Boudica’s launch.Over in Gippsland, Pauline Ball is confident she’s covered the bases for those buxom divas.“I’ve done some elegant dresses, a variety of tops, and pants ranging from skinny leg to palazzo in mixed prints and solids,” she reveals.“Boudica is an endless summer label that will be available year-round for cool, comfortable, flattering clothes.”- Zelda Cawthorne
Exotik Glamour: Sensuous silks
The pure silk delights can be found in upmarket boutiques on the Greek islands of Mykonos and Santorini as well as at an exclusive resort in Fiji.They bear the label Exotik Glamour and behind it is a remarkable enterprise that began just two years ago when its Sydney founder, Koula Papadopoulos, decided she needed a fresh creative outlet.
“I never trained in fashion, but can sew and draw, and when my kids were younger, I made bonbonieres and boxed baby gifts for numerous weddings and christenings,” says the mother of four who was born in Australia to Greek immigrant parents.“They were traditional bonbonieres – typically, containing sugared almonds – and I sourced the lace trimmings, ribbons and little ornaments for the gift boxes at trade fairs.”The cottage industry thrived, but as her children – now aged from 16-21 – headed towards adulthood, Koula yearned for a bigger challenge. The upshot was Exotik Glamour, inspired by that timeless fashion favourite, the caftan.“I started my label from nothing in terms of capital and contacts, but my husband Nik financed my first collection and after lots of research, I found a great manufacturer in Delhi,” reveals Koula.The gifted Sydney entrepreneur and her Indian collaborators have turned out to be a dream team. She acts as designer/creative director; they provide graphic design and manufacture the twice-yearly collections whose exquisite handcrafted embroidery and embellishments distinguish Exotik Glamour.The luxe label has evolved into wide-ranging resort wear – dresses, sarongs, pants, jumpsuits and tops from tunics to camisoles, as well as those sensuous caftans - in silk crepe, georgette, chiffon and satin.
With their rich colours and prints highlighted by intricate beading and details such as tassels, the pieces blend fashion and art, and are super versatile – perfect for the beach or year-round evening glamour, and favoured by trendy teens and seasoned sophisticates alike.Behind each garment is a meticulous, sometimes lengthy process. ”I send the designs to Delhi and while some samples are sent for my approval within a week, others can take up to a month if there are details that need to be adjusted,” says Koula.“I travel to India twice a year and what always amazes me is the handcrafting process. It’s done so fast and skillfully, and the results are beautiful. They also mean each garment is unique.”Prior to the Sydney 2019 Fashion Exposed Now fair, Koula will exhibit at the January 25-28 Athens Fashion Trade Show. It will be her second innings at the Southeast Europe/Mediterranean region’s key international fashion trade fair and the fluent Greek speaker should do well.“Exotik Glamour is ideal for the Greek islands which attract so many tourists, especially from across Europe and the US, and my clients in Mykonos and Santorini have already contacted me to make sure I’ll be in Athens,” she says.Along with her new season silk confections, Koula Papadopoulos will show a capsule collection in viscose at Fashion Exposed Now.“I’ve designed black and white statement pieces highlighted by teal and mustard. It’s a departure for me – all solids, no prints.”- Zelda Cawthorne