Leading American designer Kenneth Cole loves the elegance of classic black. For knockout impact, look no further than the one-piece swimsuits featured in his latest women’s beachwear collection – super sleek black numbers that entice with details such as macramé lacing, gossamer fine mesh and eyelet embroidery.Sharing star billing with Kenneth Cole New York at the Sydney 2019 Fashion Exposed Now fair will be Ralph Lauren’s Polo and Lauren labels, and hot Canadian favourite, Dsquared2.
The North Americans will provide more than an elite international flavour for the fair’s Beach & Body section. Between them, the four labels offer all the key new season trends – especially the sensuous, but tasteful one-piecer.The pieces feature cut-outs, deep vees, plunging backs and sheer inserts with the overall effect ultra chic, immaculately styled swimwear.Palettes and prints echo the mood. Bright solids that emphasise clean silhouettes are favoured by all four labels and all-black or the monochrome drama of black and white, get big play. There is also a profusion of fine stripes, while prints range from intricate florals and paisleys to tropical themes.Classic styling extends to bikini bottoms – a cool alternative is the hipster – while tops include bandeaus, halter necks, tankinis and prettily frilled numbers.
Among the standouts: A delectable floral suite – one-piece, bikini, hipster and lean long-sleeved top – in cornflower blue, rose and white from Lauren Ralph Lauren (“the label is inspired by true American aristocracy and Hollywood glamour”); striking geometrics from Dsquared2; some dazzling abstract prints in Ralph Lauren’s edgy Polo range, and – easy choice - Kenneth Cole’s black beauties, though he also offers lots of colour.In contrast to Cole and Ralph Lauren whose fame is inextricably linked to the Big Apple, Dean and Dan Caten (originally, Catenacci), the 53-year-old identical twin brothers behind Dsquared2, proudly proclaim their internationalism through their label’s slogan “Born in Canada, living in London, made in Italy”. In 1991, the Catens moved to Milan where they worked as designers for the house of Gianni Versace and denim brand Diesel before launching Dsquared2 in 1995. Madonna gave the brothers a huge boost when she commissioned them to design more than 150 pieces for her 2001 Drowned World tour, but they have long been celebrities in their own right.- Zelda Cawthorne
Ivy & Isabel: Inspirational women
During a trip to India, Gerri Lushey was bowled over by the profusion of exquisite textiles and craftsmanship. “Then and there I decided to start a resort wear label,” recalls the Western Australian designer.The upshot was Ivy & Isabel, launched in 2009 and based in coastal North Fremantle. At the heritage building that houses the label’s flagship store, the decor is in perfect harmony with the fresh, appealing clothes on display.Gerri’s love affair with fashion began early. “I was about 14 when I designed and made my first dress, and continued to make many of my clothes including jackets,” she says.“I had this dream of working in a Paris fashion house, but my dad put his foot down. ‘You need to do something practical,’ he insisted, so I went to business college and became an executive secretary.”
Marriage and two daughters followed, then she found herself involved in the family’s wetsuit company in Fremantle. So much potential for improvement and expansion, mused Gerri. A fashion course at a Tafe college gave her the skills she needed and she rapidly acquired more.“I designed surfwear and associated products, did the pattern-making and cutting, learned to use eight different sewing machines, organized staff and eventually took the brand offshore,” says Gerri.The revitalized company’s success gave her the confidence to create Ivy & Isabel. Nearly a decade on, the label continues to thrive and evolve.
“I started Ivy & Isabel at home with showings in my lounge room, then graduated to an office before opening the store,” says Gerri.“At one stage my range was much bigger, but I’ve streamlined it and simplified things for a couple of reasons. One, the bigger you get, the greater the risk of failure. And two, versatile, easy-wearing, easy care pieces appeal to all ages.“That’s important in today’s market because while we have an ageing population, the generation gap has closed a lot in terms of fashion. These days, age differences are often reflected in styling. Young girls can team my shirts with say, cut-off shorts, while older women can wear them with a smart pair of jeans or pants.”Shirts, dresses, skirts and tops – “a little boho and colours that remind me of the beach” - will feature in the Ivy & Isabel Summer 2019 collection presented at the February 9-10 Fashion Exposed Now fair in Sydney.
As usual, natural fibres will dominate, with the emphasis on cottons, including fine voiles, while a dressier section will be in silk satin.“I source my cottons in India and manufacture there as well as in Indonesia which provides me with rayons and linens,” says Gerri.When it came to naming her resort wear label, she decided to keep it in the family.“I immediately thought of my maternal grandmother, Ivy Jackson, who brought up her three daughters in Bamboo Creek, Marble Bar (in the Pilbara, WA).” says Gerri Lushey.“It’s the second hottest place in Australia, but Ivy found beauty in that harsh, isolated environment and expressed her creativity through sewing, photography and painting. She also played the piano and taught her children at home through correspondence.“She was an incredibly talented, strong woman. So, I’m sure, was her mother Isabel.”- Zelda Cawthorne
charley vella: Versatile chic from a practical designer
Rachael Levey loved her Fresh Fox boutique in Freshwater on Sydney’s scenic coastal stretch, the Northern Beaches. It was the perfect outlet – indeed exclusive outlet – for her label, charley vella and practically doubled as a social club.“I met so many beautiful people every day and built some great friendships,” she says. “charley vella is aimed at the 30 and over market, but depending on how you style the pieces, it works for all ages. At Fresh Fox, I’d have a mother, daughter and grandmother all buying something.”The boutique that became a local institution closed in early 2018 after three years’ operation – “a heart-breaking decision.” One factor was the uncertainty of the shop lease, but there were more pressing reasons.
“The demands of running two businesses were taking their toll,” confesses Rachael, who realized that Fresh Fox was draining her of the time and energy needed for design and production – the latter no easy task as charley vella is manufactured in Bali.The Newcastle-born designer’s decision to focus on growing and promoting her label has already borne fruit. charley vella now has outlets in New South Wales, Victoria, Queensland and South Australia, and more stockists are likely after the Sydney 2019 Fashion Exposed Now fair.“I’ll be showing two collections – Autumn/Winter 2019 and Spring/Summer 2019/20,” says Rachael. “I’m very practical when it comes to design. How will this fabric feel on the body and will it wash and wear? Can this piece be worn from beach to bar? Does it need pockets? They’re the sort of questions I ask myself.”The results of that scrutiny are clearly visible. There’s not a hint of fuss or fads in charley vella’s versatile dresses and separates. Subtlety is the operative word – in the flattering shapes, refined palette, dainty prints and occasional decorative touches such lace detail on a classic white shirt.
“I cut my first pattern when I was about eight and by high school, I was designing and making my own clothes,” recalls Rachael. “My mother was a great seamstress and we had a massive cache of fabrics at home.”Fashion school seemed the obvious course for the girl who was happiest at her cutting table and sewing machine. Instead she did a BA in business at the University of Newcastle, travelled for a year and ended up working in management positions in Melbourne for eight years.“During that time, I did a design course at the Melbourne School of Fashion and when I moved to (the Northern Beaches’) Manly Vale, I designed and made some skirts for friends,” says Rachael. That was in 2009. By the following year, she was living in Byron Bay. It was there she launched charley vella – a close anagram of her name.
“My label began with a single rack of skirts at the Byron Bay market and I felt terribly anxious because I had no idea if they’d sell, but they did and things grew from there.”The Northern Beaches lifestyle lends itself to the laid-back, feminine style she loves, says Rachael, who references new season trends from Europe and New York, but draws inspiration from numerous sources including her customers.“Often I have a specific woman in mind when I’m designing pieces and choosing fabrics. She’s not necessarily young. There are plenty of gorgeous, stylish women who are in their ‘50s and older.”A Balgowlah warehouse shared with a local artist is the designer’s new base. It may not have Fresh Fox’s ambience, but Northern Beaches fashion fans can look forward to a series of open weekends for the public during the summer.“It’s a fabulous space,” says Rachael Levey. “It will be a very different shopping experience – relaxed and enriching.- Zelda Cawthorne
Sass Clothing: Triple recipe for success
Talitha Becker never aspired to be a designer. It was the business of fashion that drew her and she lost no time in learning the ropes.“I got my first job in retail at 17, straight out of school and worked for Portmans, Sportsgirl and others,” recalls the founder and creative director of Melbourne’s Sass Clothing Group..Its labels - Sass, Fate + Becker and Betty Basics - will feature at the Sydney 2019 Fashion Exposed Now fair and Talitha expects a warm response from buyers.Her optimism is justified. All three labels have proved to be strong performers. And as she points out, “Last year was our best yet.” Given the tough market, that’s a remarkable achievement, especially when you consider that Sass Clothing turned 21 in 2018. “My husband (former banker, Sandy Cameron) suggested I should start my own label,” reveals Talitha at her stylish Collingwood headquarters whose upper level – lots of timber features, exposed brickwork and rich earth colours - is dominated by a large showroom.
It was a very different scene back in 1997 when she launched Sass. “For the first four years, I ran it from my kitchen bench in Adelaide,” says Talitha. “Sandy had been posted there, but when he was asked to do a second stint, I said, ‘I’m going back to Melbourne.’ “It meant lots of commuting, but hard work paid off and when David Jones picked up Sass, Talitha knew she was on her way.Now the mother of three sons aged 17, 15 and 12, she was raised in Portland, Victoria, by European immigrant parents. “They were practically penniless when they arrived in Australia, but my mother had such flair!” says Talitha. ”That’s what triggered my interest in fashion and in my early 20s, I got my foot in the door when I was hired as a sales rep by the Austin Group – now gone, sadly, but still an icon. Travelling to regional areas and meeting retailers was a great education.”The great mentor turned her next boss, a Melbourne fashion importer who took his protégée to China on buying trips. “He’s a brilliant negotiator and I learned how business was done in cities like Tianjin and Nanjing,” says Talitha.”I’d walk into a meeting and there’d be 10 men there, all of them smoking. I also went on work trips to India. I did those on my own.”
Fate + Becker (originally named Fate) was launched in 2004 and Betty Basics followed in 2010. Like the young, edgy Sass, they are clearly distinctive – Fate + Becker providing timeless chic and Betty Basics devoted to wardrobe essentials which have recently expanded to footwear and accessories.Sass Clothing’s 35-strong core staff includes an all-female design team, while production is handled by both men and women. Leading them are the indefatigable Talitha and Sandy, who quit banking to head up finance, logistics and HR.Regular trips to the world’s fashion hubs are vital for inspiration, says Talitha, who recently returned from New York, Los Angeles, London and Paris. That first-hand immersion is reflected in Sass Clothing’s directional, carefully tuned collections. “You get the look – and good quality - without the sky-high prices.”
There are lessons to be learned from the company’s longevity. “A lot of young fashion entrepreneurs get carried away, but lack a strong foundation,” notes Talitha. “Typically, they start with a bang and take out loans in order to expand, but when lean times come, they go under.“Our way has always been: Whatever profits you make, reinvest them in your business.”That includes philanthropy. Six months ago, Sass Clothing launched its Betty Care Foundation in collaboration with Melbourne’s Royal Women’s Hospital and plans to take the program across Australia and New Zealand.“Many women including domestic abuse victims arrive at the hospital with only the clothes on their backs, so we created Betty Care fashion basics packs for them,” says Talitha Becker. “We may team up with a skin care company to give the packs an extra boost.”A fourth label is a definite possibility. “We will expand again,” assures the power behind Sass Clothing. “I get itchy feet."- Zelda Cawthorne