Rainwear. You’d think some bright spark would have had a lightbulb moment about this category of outerwear usually seen as utilitarian and mostly ignored by the fashion world.Two bright Danish sparks, actually. In 2012, Daniel Brix Hesselager and Philip Lotko launched Rains, hoping it would work as a niche label. It sure did. Today, Rains has 3,000 outlets including 25 concept stores – among them, one in Melbourne Central - in 21 countries.
The momentum continues. “Currently, the UK is our biggest market, but we expect it will be overtaken by the US in 2020,” says 33-year-old Daniel at the company’s base in Aarhus, Denmark’s second-largest city.He was majoring in furniture design at renowned Danish design and business college, TEKO, when he and fellow student Philip Lotko – “he majored in PR” – took time out from their studies to design a poncho made from a lightweight polyurethane fabric.Initially, the idea of merging design and style with an outdoor technical product was a fascinating challenge. Then it dawned on them that they had the beginnings of a wet weather lifestyle brand.It now encompasses water-resistant outerwear including parkas, trench coats, puffer jackets and pants, plus loads of bags and accessories from hats and gloves to holders for laptops and glasses, though growing Rains took perseverance.“It took us a few years to generate income and at first, we handled design,” says Danial. “Then Rains took off and we now have a design team for our men’s and women’s ranges.”Forget the relentless frenzy of new season trends. Rains is all about that Scandinavian passion for simplicity, functionality and clean lines – the perfect accompaniments to contemporary casual fashion.The overall effect is super cool and monotones rule. Dark colours dominate, but there are also pieces in beige, olive and light grey, plus brights including yellow, tomato red and ultramarine. What you won’t find are prints.“We don’t do them,” says Daniel. “However, we do play with different matte textures which is technically more complicated, but visually appealing.”Like the clothes, the shops, including flagship stores in New York, Shanghai and most recently, London (“just near Covent Garden; a fantastic location”), have that spare, yet inviting Scandinavian appeal and further bricks and mortar outlets are planned for major cities across the globe.“Ninety per cent of our revenue comes from outside Denmark,” notes Daniel. “We definitely plan to open more stores in Australia and we’ll continue to develop our online platform. Our bags and accessories have proved tremendously popular. They now account for 50 per cent of our products.”
The poncho that spawned Rains wasn’t the only source of inspiration for what has grown into a formidable lifestyle brand – or even the main one, many Danes would say. The skies open regularly in Denmark, especially in Copenhagen which has an annual average of 170 rainy days.Story by Zelda Cawthorne
Fashion Exposed Now
Discover the Rains AW19 Check Capsule and AW19 Essentials and Accessories collections on display at Fashion Exposed, Australia’s only dedicated womenswear buying event. Registration is free and includes access local and international labels, seminars and round table sessions to help build your business. Sunday 2 – Monday 3 February 2020Royal Exhibition Building, Melbourne
scanned the drawing into her computer to see if it would work as a fabric print.It needed just a few refining touches. Colours came next – the leaf outlines in ivory over a light blue background – and so, the Eucalyptus Print Collection was born in late 2018.Its fresh, relaxed dresses and separates will be among several new season standouts presented at Fashion Exposed Now by Bamboo Body, the Sydney-based label founded in 2005 by sisters Elouise Danby and Amanda Naess.“Look Good. Feel Good. Do Good” is Bamboo Body’s slogan. The philosophy behind it – clothing can be beautiful and sustainable - has never wavered, though one thing has changed dramatically.Notes Elouise: “When we began, eco fashion was seen as a bit alternative; now it’s mainstream because awareness of global warming and damage to the environment has grown hugely.“Back in 2005, Amanda and I realized there was a gap in the market for genuinely sustainable fashion.“Australian cotton farms have a massively destructive impact on waterways, so cotton was out as a key material. Then we got some bamboo fabric samples and wow, they were amazing – so soft and light.”
As the sisters soon discovered, bamboo not only drapes like a dream and blends well with other natural fibres, but is breathable and absorbs moisture, making it ideal for sensitive skin. As for the bamboo plant’s exceptionally low carbon footprint – truly one of nature’s superstars!Raised in NSW coastal town, Kiama – “still my favourite place in the world” – Elouise found herself at a sewing machine from age 13. “I’m small and read-to-wear didn’t work for me because I fell into the size gap between clothes for kids and adults, so I designed and made my own,” says the petite mother of two who heads operations and design at Bamboo Body.The strategy devised by the Elouise and Amanda could serve as a blueprint for long-term success: predominantly trans-seasonal, affordably priced collections that focus on classic design, wardrobe staples, unique inhouse prints and – increasingly demanded by the public – production practices that are environmentally and socially responsible.China has played a key role. The organically grown bamboo used by Bamboo Body is farmed in Yunnan Province and the Suzhou factory used by the company is committed to reducing emissions and recycling waste, and employs no workers under the age of 18.Other sustainable measures at Bamboo Body include using recycled paper and cardboard, and transporting their manufactured garments by sea rather than air, though of course all depends on the success of the collections.
Their popularity in outlets across Australia looks set to continue. While women’s outerwear dominates, there’s also a menswear range and categories include underwear, sleepwear, maternity and knitwear which features blends such as bamboo/cashmere.An important point of difference has been the talented Mel Broughton’s prints, first introduced three years ago. All have been hits and her latest designs will feature at Fashion Exposed Now.“One of them is the Grid Print – a little abstract and great for woven pieces,” says Elouise Danby. “Another is a soft floral for a women’s pyjama collection that we’ll be launching at the fair.” - Zelda Cawthorne 
Fashion Exposed Now will return next year, with a weekend showcase at Sydney’s International Convention Centre on the 9th and 10th of February 2019.The fashion trade fair will feature over 150 apparel, accessory and footwear brands, including swimwear from Polo Ralph Lauren, Lauren by Ralph Lauren and Kenneth Cole, along with swimwear, underwear and socks for men and women from Dsquared2 in an Australian first.In addition to the trading floor, Fashion Exposed Now has announced the addition of The Forum, a space for a series of talks to be held across the weekend. These will include best-practice tips for retailers and brands alike, spanning digital strategies and retail thought leadership.The speakers will be handpicked for the audience of fashion buyers, retail owners, stylists and designers. Confirmed speakers so far include:• Fashion tastemaker and consultant Tash Sefton on trend forecasting in a fast moving market• Leading Australian plus sized model and environmentalist Laura Wells on transparency, sustainability and why businesses should take note
With more speakers to be announced, the sessions will be divided into business and thought leadership streams to cater for the expo’s diverse audience.Commenting on previous editions, Fashion Exposed Now head honcho Marie Kinsella said it is shaping up to be an industry meeting point. "In the breakdown of attendees, we found the 75% of visitors were either retailers, stylists or designers. By attending, they were privy to the unparalleled opportunity to spend two days meeting and buying from brands featured at the event."Fashion Exposed Now provides a platform for Australian apparel, accessory and footwear brands to showcase their collections. Offerings include emerging, Australian made, European and high-end brands. The show provides an unrivalled opportunity for Australian and International brands to meet with retailers from across Australia and New Zealand and build sustainable relationships.Retailers and buyers interested in attending Fashion Exposed Now can register via the website www.fashionexposed.com
During a trip to India, Gerri Lushey was bowled over by the profusion of exquisite textiles and craftsmanship. “Then and there I decided to start a resort wear label,” recalls the Western Australian designer.The upshot was Ivy & Isabel, launched in 2009 and based in coastal North Fremantle. At the heritage building that houses the label’s flagship store, the decor is in perfect harmony with the fresh, appealing clothes on display.Gerri’s love affair with fashion began early. “I was about 14 when I designed and made my first dress, and continued to make many of my clothes including jackets,” she says.“I had this dream of working in a Paris fashion house, but my dad put his foot down. ‘You need to do something practical,’ he insisted, so I went to business college and became an executive secretary.”
Marriage and two daughters followed, then she found herself involved in the family’s wetsuit company in Fremantle. So much potential for improvement and expansion, mused Gerri. A fashion course at a Tafe college gave her the skills she needed and she rapidly acquired more.“I designed surfwear and associated products, did the pattern-making and cutting, learned to use eight different sewing machines, organized staff and eventually took the brand offshore,” says Gerri.The revitalized company’s success gave her the confidence to create Ivy & Isabel. Nearly a decade on, the label continues to thrive and evolve.
“I started Ivy & Isabel at home with showings in my lounge room, then graduated to an office before opening the store,” says Gerri.“At one stage my range was much bigger, but I’ve streamlined it and simplified things for a couple of reasons. One, the bigger you get, the greater the risk of failure. And two, versatile, easy-wearing, easy care pieces appeal to all ages.“That’s important in today’s market because while we have an ageing population, the generation gap has closed a lot in terms of fashion. These days, age differences are often reflected in styling. Young girls can team my shirts with say, cut-off shorts, while older women can wear them with a smart pair of jeans or pants.”Shirts, dresses, skirts and tops – “a little boho and colours that remind me of the beach” - will feature in the Ivy & Isabel Summer 2019 collection presented at the February 9-10 Fashion Exposed Now fair in Sydney.
As usual, natural fibres will dominate, with the emphasis on cottons, including fine voiles, while a dressier section will be in silk satin.“I source my cottons in India and manufacture there as well as in Indonesia which provides me with rayons and linens,” says Gerri.When it came to naming her resort wear label, she decided to keep it in the family.“I immediately thought of my maternal grandmother, Ivy Jackson, who brought up her three daughters in Bamboo Creek, Marble Bar (in the Pilbara, WA).” says Gerri Lushey.“It’s the second hottest place in Australia, but Ivy found beauty in that harsh, isolated environment and expressed her creativity through sewing, photography and painting. She also played the piano and taught her children at home through correspondence.“She was an incredibly talented, strong woman. So, I’m sure, was her mother Isabel.”- Zelda Cawthorne